Westminster Abbey, Kensington & Buckingham Palace

Sunny skies greeted us this morning on our last day in London. It was stil windy and cool, but no complaints. 

The staff at our hotel was very helpful in reserving us a spot in this morning’s Verger-Guided Tour of Westminster Abbey. It’s a 90-minute behind-the-scenes look at some of the places and stories that the general public aren’t generally allowed to see and hear. We needed to get there early so we set out on foot because it’s just down the street. A VERY easy walk from our hotel. 

A brilliant blue sky provided a very colorful backdrop to this striking ancient Abbey reportedly founded in the year 960. We stood in line and in awe at the magnificance of the buildings around us. Crowds were starting to gather as we were allowed in and purchased our audio tour. We didn’t use the audio tour as much because the Verger tour was so good. 

We met our tour-guide, verger David Mott in his clergy robes, and our small group of about 15 was led to several special places throughout the large abbey and we were told some wonderful tid bits that others would have missed in their audio tours. 

Our group was taken behind the main alter into Edward the Confessor’s Chapel. Around the year 1060, King Edward founded the church on this site. The Chapel of St. Edward the Confessor is the spiritual heart of the Abbey. Surrounding the shrine, which contains the saint’s body, lie five kings and four queens. 

After King Edward’s death in 1065, his reputation as a holy man grew. Miracles were said to have occurred at his tomb, and in 1161 he was made a saint. The shrine was rebuilt by Henry III in 1261 where it was encrusted with gold and jewels. However, due to the healing properties this holy man was said to have had, people would slowly pick out the gold and jewels, so the only ornate part left of the shrine is towards the top, where people could not reach. 

Hundreds, if not thousands, of famous politicians, royals, artisians, and spiritual leaders are buried or memorialized throughout the Abbey. One cannot help but step on memorials as they’re laid out on the floor beneath you. Quite sad really. Apparently Winston Churchill refused to be buried there saying “I’ve had people walk all over me in life, why have it done in death”. 

I’ve been readying a lot about the Tudor age with a particular interest in Queen Mary I and Queen Elizabeth I, King Henry VIII’s oldest children. Although not the male heirs he had hoped for, they proved to be very memorable rulers, but with very fundemental differences. 

Both Queen Mary and Queen Elizabeth are buried here at the Abbey in Henry VII’s Lady Chapel built in 1516. Elizabeth’s tomb is actually on TOP of Mary’s, which is quite sad. But at the end of Mary’s reign, she was known as “Bloody Mary” due to putting to death some 300 ‘heretics’ who refused to recant their Protestant faith. I found Mary’s life to be quite sad, and then to add insult to injury, her more famous sister is buried on top of her. 

Our verger guide told us Queen Elizabeth’s effigy used a death mask as well as death mask on her hands. She had very thin, long fingers. And the pearls she is holding are her real pearls. Fascinating. 

Queen Elizabeth’s tomb is large – but not quite as large and ornate as that of her rival for the English throne, Mary, Queen of Scots who was eventually executed in 1587 on Elizabeth’s orders. Mary’s son, James I, erected this grand tomb for his mother while he was ruling England. I find it ironic that only in death does she preside in England. 

On our tour, we were also allowed to sit in the roped-off Quire area. The Quire (choir) is a ‘church wtihin a church’ where we learned the history and symbolizm of each and every decorative element in the quire. Including where the current Queen Elizabeth II sits when she attends service there. 

At the end of our tour, we viewed the coronation chair, which has seen better days, but is the oldest piece of furniture in Britian still in use for its original purpose. Commissioned in 1297, the chair has been badly abused over the centuries and lost much of its original luster, but I’m glad they’re not “redoing” it and leaving it. Yes, it’s not pretty, but the history of that chair is highly significant. I have not heard if it will be used for Queen Elizabeth’s jubilee services. 

David, our verger guide also tossed in his participation in the wedding of Prince William and Kate Middleton last April which was held in the Abbey. David gathered and led Princes Willian and Harry from a side chapel in the Abbey into the main hall for the wedding and he told us where he sat during the service. I immediately downloaded a BBC Video of the wedding on iTunes for us to watch later and look for him! We thought that was pretty neat. 

Dave and I wanted to stay at the Abbey all day. There is so much to see and so much history in these sacred walls that we just did not leave enough time to explore everything we wanted to. Our verge tour was wonderful and we’re so glad we did that. However, Kensington Palace was to be our last stop in our London adventure and we needed to make sure we left enough time for that in the afternoon. 

We reluctantly left the Abbey, hailed a cab and headed to Kensington Palace where the present buildings we now see were first occupied in 1689 by King William III and Queen Mary II. Later Queen Victoria grew up, lived and loved there. I had been reading the wonderful letters of Queen Victoria (vol. 1 of 4!) so I was anxious to see the newly redsigned Victoria Revealed exhibition. 

I have to say this is THE only part of our London trip that was a complete and utter disappointment. Perhaps it was because we had previously been through some of the grandest, historical buildings in England that had original woodwork, stonework, artwork and tours worthy of their status, but this was terribly lacking in almost every department. 

Disorganized, sparse, and cheap are three words that would describe it all. Yes, they did have some wonderful historical items from Victoria’s era, but they were few and not much in the way explanation on what some things were or how they were used. That is unless you wanted to sit somewhere and read the Xeroxed booklets stapled together to read about it all. Many things that were displayed had no explanation on what it was, where it was used, who used it, or when it was used. 

And the ‘tribute’ to Diana? Just sad and a poor tribute to a wonderful woman. The cartoon wallpaper leading to her one room of tribute was cheap looking and almost mocked her beauty. The single room set aside for Diana was little more than a display of 5 or 6 of her dresses. This woman was far more than clothing. She helped so many people. She lived in that house, raised her children in that house, including the heir to the throne, and the thousands of floral tributes as Kensington’s gates after her death should have been an indication that more than one room should be used. I do hear that Wiliam and Kate will be living there. I hope they’re happy and never step foot in this room. What a shame. Maybe other people find the wallpaper in good taste a lovely tribute, I just don’t. 

Even the supposed royal rooms of William and Mary were cheaply decorated and painted. Perhaps they were originally like that, but I seriously doubt the modern art hanging from the chandelier’s is original to the era. Just very odd. 

The ONLY wonderful about Kensington Palace wasn’t in the palace itself, but outside. The garden was wonderful. Truly beautiful and a nice respite from the strangeness inside. I don’t know if one is able to pay admission to just see the garden, but I wouldn’t waste my time again inside. 

Dave and I also had a nice tea at The Orangery Restaurant at Kensington Palace. I did enjoy the tea very much, but Dave had issues with our server, so he didn’t enjoy it quite so much. I go into more detail on m tea blog.

After the disappointment of Kensington Palace, we walked back through St. James Gardens and enjoyed the wildlife that Henry VIII had originally brought in for his own personal hunting ground. Yes, I know they’re not the ORIGINAL animals, but there were some odd birds there to say the least. It was a lovely walk which then brought us back to Buckingham Palace which was much less crowded than it was last Saturday when we arrived. 

Dave and I walked up to the main gate and took many photos. The construction work around Buckingham Palace was a bit distracting and more than a little annoying for drivers in London because the roads were blocked off. The work was being done for the upcoming Diamond Jubilee celebrations for Queen Elizabeth II. 

As we were standing there, four motorcycle cops with lights flashing arrived at the front gate. Hmmm….they looked remarkably similar to the other night when we saw the Queen! So, we staked out a spot along the gate by the entrance hoping to catch visible proof of a royal this time! I did get video of the Land Rover leaving, but had no idea who it was until after they drove by. It was Prince Andrew and what we all assumed was one of his daughters in the back seat. Andrew was sitting on the opposite side, so it’s very diffciult to tell who was in the car. Oh, well…we tried! 

Dave and I walked back to the hotel, had a lovely dinner in the pub, then headed back to the room to pack.

Windsor Castle, The Phantom, and The Queen

Today was our first train trip! We hired another cab to pick us up at the hotel and take us to the train station. We knew we were going to have to make a train switch in Slouth as well so that was getting us a tad nervous. 

The train station was quite busy and our gate number wasn’t showing up on the big board which was a little unnerving, but about 10 minutes prior to departure it showed up on the board and an exodus of people descended to the tracks. 

Unfortunately, we had to sit backwards, but it wasn’t a long train trip. We arrived in Slouth and had a short wait for our final train into Windsor. Everything went very well. We arrived on time, walked into town and BOOM, there’s your darn castle right there in the middle of town! I was shocked by two things…that it was right there so close to the town and that there was so much of it! I had no idea Windsor Castle was so large. 

The town of Windsor is lovely. I would love to spend more time there, but we had a castle to see and it was starting to sprinkle again. Dave and I purchased the audio guide which was very helpful and a terrific tool for touring. Well worth the price. Although it makes everyone look like they’re carrying around cell phones attached to their ears. 

Windsor Castle has been around since the 11th century and has been the home of 39 monarchs. It’s currently one of the official residences of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II and she and Prince Phillip spend most weekends there. 

Unfortunately, we were unable to take photos inside the castle and that’s a shame because some of the rooms and royal collections are outstanding and overwhelming in scale and scope. Truly jaw dropping. 

One of the highlights was going into St. George’s Chapel which is a beautiful example of artestry and craftsmanship. And it’s also a beautiful place of worship and reflection as several famous people are buried there. 

The current Queen’s parents (King George VI  & Elizabeth the Queen Mum) and her sister Margaret are buried there as are King Edward VII and Queen Alexandra. But one very surprising burial site as that of King Henry VIII. 

I knew he was buried there, but was waiting for them to point out the statue, or tomb, or memorial to him. Suddenly, while walking in the choir (or quire), I realized the dark slab I was standing on said “Henry VIII”. I stepped back and read the following: 

~~~~~ In a Vault beneath this marble slab are deposited the remains of Jane Seymour Queen of King Henry VIII (1537), King Henry VIII (1547), King Charles I (1648), and an infant child of Queen Anne. This memorial was placed here by command of King William IV in 1837 ~~~~~ 

I was really shocked that a King who had such an amazing history and reign had such a plain, non-descript burial place. Apparently he DID have a much more grand place in mind, but the country ran out of money to complete it. Kind of sad really. I know, I know…he was a horrible husband and killed a lot of innocent people, but he surely was bigger than life in all respects and this was so plain and simple. 

A wooden window seat built for Henry’s first wife, Catherine of Aragon, was particularly interesting and intriguing since it was built in the 1400’s. Prince Charles and his 2nd wife Camilla had a celebration of dedication and prayer at the chapel a few years ago as well. 

The grounds around the castle that the general public is allowed to see are beautiful and one can only imagine the larger views the royals must have there. It’s a large working castle with over 160 regular employees that also live on the grounds. I’m not sure I’d like tourists walking by my front door on a daily basis. 

The state apartments and banquet rooms were beyond amazing and to know they’re still in use today and the amount of preparation that needs to be done for state visits is astounding. So much attention to detail. They sure know how to do pomp and circumstance well. 

As we left the castle our stomachs were growling. After a short walk through the village we stumbled upon The Carpenter’s Arms pub. Built in 1518. The pub cellars have many passages that lead to Windsor Castle which were used until the early 19th Century but have now been bricked up. Dave ordered one of their home brews and I ordered a Guinness and some fish & chips, which was fantastic! A giant piece of cod. 

A short walk back to the train station and we caught our trains back to London without incident, although a really ugly, dark cloud moved in over the castle and we got a tad wet at the train platform on the way out. The train travel was relatively painless. 

We had a quick dinner at the pub, a brief hail storm passed, then we grabbed a cab to the theater for our night with the phantom! Our show of choice was PHANTOM OF THE OPERA. It has been at this same theater, Her Majesty’s Theatre, for 25 years. The theater itself was much smaller than I was expecting at a seating capacity of only 1,200. One change from the theater productions I’ve been to on Broadway is that they offered sides of champange prior to the show (at a cost of course) then they were taking drink orders for intermission and they offered small containers of ice cream at intermission. We DID have some ice cream at intermission mostly because it was so toasty in the theater. 

Our seats were amazing! Could see the entire stage, no obstructions and at one point, even in the first balcony, 3 rows back, the phantom was literally at eye level with us while suspended in the air on a piece of scenery. WELL worth the extra money we spent and the show itself was fantastic. The actors and singing were phenominal except for one character who had such a thick french accent I couldn’t understand a darn thing she said. I know we should have gone to see a more recent less-seen production, but I wanted to have a feel-good, big-theater experience and you can’t miss with Phantom. I had never seen it on the stage either, so to see it in the original theater it started in made it a really fun night at the theater. Dave loves the show and the music too. 

After our ride back to the hotel, we realized it was beautiful out and was still relatively early, so we change into some more comfortable clothing and shoes and walked down to Westminster Abby, Parliment Square and the Thames. The city lights were beautiful and the blue lights of The London Eye really stood out. 

As we were getting ready to cross a road onto the Waterloo Bridge, four motorcycle police officers were closing down traffic (not that there was much at 11 at night) and a sedan followed closely behind them. As the sedan passed by, Dave, myself and two other people next to us realized the woman sitting in the back of the car was THE Queen Elizabeth! Talk about completely taken by surprise and a wonderful unexpected event! We were shocked at our luck. Unfortunately, no photos can prove we saw what we saw, but we both know it WAS her. The young man next to us was British and he said he had lived in London all his life and never saw the Queen and we’re there one night and see her! LOL Pretty neat. 

The weather was finally turning around to some warmer temps and less rain, so we were happy about that.