Sunny skies greeted us this morning on our last day in London. It was stil windy and cool, but no complaints.
The staff at our hotel was very helpful in reserving us a spot in this morning’s Verger-Guided Tour of Westminster Abbey. It’s a 90-minute behind-the-scenes look at some of the places and stories that the general public aren’t generally allowed to see and hear. We needed to get there early so we set out on foot because it’s just down the street. A VERY easy walk from our hotel.
A brilliant blue sky provided a very colorful backdrop to this striking ancient Abbey reportedly founded in the year 960. We stood in line and in awe at the magnificance of the buildings around us. Crowds were starting to gather as we were allowed in and purchased our audio tour. We didn’t use the audio tour as much because the Verger tour was so good.
We met our tour-guide, verger David Mott in his clergy robes, and our small group of about 15 was led to several special places throughout the large abbey and we were told some wonderful tid bits that others would have missed in their audio tours.
Our group was taken behind the main alter into Edward the Confessor’s Chapel. Around the year 1060, King Edward founded the church on this site. The Chapel of St. Edward the Confessor is the spiritual heart of the Abbey. Surrounding the shrine, which contains the saint’s body, lie five kings and four queens.
After King Edward’s death in 1065, his reputation as a holy man grew. Miracles were said to have occurred at his tomb, and in 1161 he was made a saint. The shrine was rebuilt by Henry III in 1261 where it was encrusted with gold and jewels. However, due to the healing properties this holy man was said to have had, people would slowly pick out the gold and jewels, so the only ornate part left of the shrine is towards the top, where people could not reach.
Hundreds, if not thousands, of famous politicians, royals, artisians, and spiritual leaders are buried or memorialized throughout the Abbey. One cannot help but step on memorials as they’re laid out on the floor beneath you. Quite sad really. Apparently Winston Churchill refused to be buried there saying “I’ve had people walk all over me in life, why have it done in death”.
I’ve been readying a lot about the Tudor age with a particular interest in Queen Mary I and Queen Elizabeth I, King Henry VIII’s oldest children. Although not the male heirs he had hoped for, they proved to be very memorable rulers, but with very fundemental differences.
Both Queen Mary and Queen Elizabeth are buried here at the Abbey in Henry VII’s Lady Chapel built in 1516. Elizabeth’s tomb is actually on TOP of Mary’s, which is quite sad. But at the end of Mary’s reign, she was known as “Bloody Mary” due to putting to death some 300 ‘heretics’ who refused to recant their Protestant faith. I found Mary’s life to be quite sad, and then to add insult to injury, her more famous sister is buried on top of her.
Our verger guide told us Queen Elizabeth’s effigy used a death mask as well as death mask on her hands. She had very thin, long fingers. And the pearls she is holding are her real pearls. Fascinating.
Queen Elizabeth’s tomb is large – but not quite as large and ornate as that of her rival for the English throne, Mary, Queen of Scots who was eventually executed in 1587 on Elizabeth’s orders. Mary’s son, James I, erected this grand tomb for his mother while he was ruling England. I find it ironic that only in death does she preside in England.
On our tour, we were also allowed to sit in the roped-off Quire area. The Quire (choir) is a ‘church wtihin a church’ where we learned the history and symbolizm of each and every decorative element in the quire. Including where the current Queen Elizabeth II sits when she attends service there.
At the end of our tour, we viewed the coronation chair, which has seen better days, but is the oldest piece of furniture in Britian still in use for its original purpose. Commissioned in 1297, the chair has been badly abused over the centuries and lost much of its original luster, but I’m glad they’re not “redoing” it and leaving it. Yes, it’s not pretty, but the history of that chair is highly significant. I have not heard if it will be used for Queen Elizabeth’s jubilee services.
David, our verger guide also tossed in his participation in the wedding of Prince William and Kate Middleton last April which was held in the Abbey. David gathered and led Princes Willian and Harry from a side chapel in the Abbey into the main hall for the wedding and he told us where he sat during the service. I immediately downloaded a BBC Video of the wedding on iTunes for us to watch later and look for him! We thought that was pretty neat.
Dave and I wanted to stay at the Abbey all day. There is so much to see and so much history in these sacred walls that we just did not leave enough time to explore everything we wanted to. Our verge tour was wonderful and we’re so glad we did that. However, Kensington Palace was to be our last stop in our London adventure and we needed to make sure we left enough time for that in the afternoon.
We reluctantly left the Abbey, hailed a cab and headed to Kensington Palace where the present buildings we now see were first occupied in 1689 by King William III and Queen Mary II. Later Queen Victoria grew up, lived and loved there. I had been reading the wonderful letters of Queen Victoria (vol. 1 of 4!) so I was anxious to see the newly redsigned Victoria Revealed exhibition.
I have to say this is THE only part of our London trip that was a complete and utter disappointment. Perhaps it was because we had previously been through some of the grandest, historical buildings in England that had original woodwork, stonework, artwork and tours worthy of their status, but this was terribly lacking in almost every department.
Disorganized, sparse, and cheap are three words that would describe it all. Yes, they did have some wonderful historical items from Victoria’s era, but they were few and not much in the way explanation on what some things were or how they were used. That is unless you wanted to sit somewhere and read the Xeroxed booklets stapled together to read about it all. Many things that were displayed had no explanation on what it was, where it was used, who used it, or when it was used.
And the ‘tribute’ to Diana? Just sad and a poor tribute to a wonderful woman. The cartoon wallpaper leading to her one room of tribute was cheap looking and almost mocked her beauty. The single room set aside for Diana was little more than a display of 5 or 6 of her dresses. This woman was far more than clothing. She helped so many people. She lived in that house, raised her children in that house, including the heir to the throne, and the thousands of floral tributes as Kensington’s gates after her death should have been an indication that more than one room should be used. I do hear that Wiliam and Kate will be living there. I hope they’re happy and never step foot in this room. What a shame. Maybe other people find the wallpaper in good taste a lovely tribute, I just don’t.
Even the supposed royal rooms of William and Mary were cheaply decorated and painted. Perhaps they were originally like that, but I seriously doubt the modern art hanging from the chandelier’s is original to the era. Just very odd.
The ONLY wonderful about Kensington Palace wasn’t in the palace itself, but outside. The garden was wonderful. Truly beautiful and a nice respite from the strangeness inside. I don’t know if one is able to pay admission to just see the garden, but I wouldn’t waste my time again inside.
Dave and I also had a nice tea at The Orangery Restaurant at Kensington Palace. I did enjoy the tea very much, but Dave had issues with our server, so he didn’t enjoy it quite so much. I go into more detail on m tea blog.
After the disappointment of Kensington Palace, we walked back through St. James Gardens and enjoyed the wildlife that Henry VIII had originally brought in for his own personal hunting ground. Yes, I know they’re not the ORIGINAL animals, but there were some odd birds there to say the least. It was a lovely walk which then brought us back to Buckingham Palace which was much less crowded than it was last Saturday when we arrived.
Dave and I walked up to the main gate and took many photos. The construction work around Buckingham Palace was a bit distracting and more than a little annoying for drivers in London because the roads were blocked off. The work was being done for the upcoming Diamond Jubilee celebrations for Queen Elizabeth II.
As we were standing there, four motorcycle cops with lights flashing arrived at the front gate. Hmmm….they looked remarkably similar to the other night when we saw the Queen! So, we staked out a spot along the gate by the entrance hoping to catch visible proof of a royal this time! I did get video of the Land Rover leaving, but had no idea who it was until after they drove by. It was Prince Andrew and what we all assumed was one of his daughters in the back seat. Andrew was sitting on the opposite side, so it’s very diffciult to tell who was in the car. Oh, well…we tried!
Dave and I walked back to the hotel, had a lovely dinner in the pub, then headed back to the room to pack.